New Camera For Christmas!

[stuart2588]

Hi

Santa was good to me this year and I got my first camera lol. I got a Canon 1000d with lens kit and a nice bag and memory card.

I love it!

Its taking me a bit of time to get used to the settings though.

Any tips or things I need to read? Or is trial and error the way forward?

Stu

[martinastro]

Congratulations Stuart, that's a very good camera, in fact I was just looking at that model in the shops before Christmas. I can sense the excitement you have with the new gadget.

As for advice, I would say read the instruction manual from cover to cover and practice using the camera on everything until it becomes second nature. Shoot the crimbo decos, your family, birds in the garden, and try some exposures at night even if it's cloudy. You will be rocking and rolling in no time!. Enjoy it, and don't forget to share your images with us 

[Paul]

Santa has been very good to you Stuart - that's a very good camera you've got there with enough automation to get you started and full manual control for when you realise that automation is approximate and you want to achieve precise control.

First steps would be to get used to the camera and its controls so you can change settings without having to look at the controls. Then try the manual modes. You have "live view" which means you don't even need to take pictures to see the effect - a far cry from when I learned when it was necessary to finish all 38 shots on the film, send it away for processing whilst trying to remember what I'd done right without the help of anything as clever as Exif data to help out!

Sharing photos and asking questions here is of course actively encouraged and we're mature enough here that we don't laugh if you put up a mistake and ask "What went wrong here?".

A bit of a plug - I'm talking to the IAA in Belfast on 7th Jan about astrophotograhy and a large part of that will cover doing it with ordinary cameras - ie without spending thousands of pounds!

If exploring things in the astro direction interests you I will recommend one purchase that isn't expensive and which will work wonders for your conventional photography as well - a 50mm f1.8 lens. The fixed focal length imposes a discipline on composition - you have to move the camera to get what you want in the frame - whilst the wide aperture allows lots of light gathering power and shows depth of field well whilst aiding accurate focussing.

Enjoy your photography!

Paul.

[Roman White]

Congrats Stuart 
Nothing to add after Paul's comment 

[JohnC]

Here's a link that contains a video  (scroll down a bit) that takes you round the camera. I don't know the technical terms for what I'm about to to suggest but at first the video keeps stopping because the round curser catches up with the red line as the red line is moving more slowly . After it started I took the curser back to the start and it went ok but a bit further on it still stopped and started very annoying. Maybe you know of a way to overcome this but bear with it because it's very good - just what you're  asking about. Happy shooting.

http://www.dphotojournal.com/canon-eos-1000d-rebel-xs-review-sample-photos/

[jgs001]

Very nice Stuart. Not much to add over above the others. But try to use the P mode rather than the scene mode. It gives you more control over the camera, yet still does the same amount of work as the scene modes (it also doesn't insist you use the flash at ever opportunity either  ). Then when you're used to the camera and controls, you can start using the creative settings more.

[brianb]

If exploring things in the astro direction interests you I will recommend one purchase that isn't expensive and which will work wonders for your conventional photography as well - a 50mm f1.8 lens. The fixed focal length imposes a discipline on composition

I can't possibly argue with the 50/1.8 for astro work but it gives an annoyingly narrow field of view for a "standard" lens for normal photography - unless you have a full frame camera, even then I prefer a 35mm lens if I'm restricted to one prime lens only. For a "crop frame" (APS-C or DX) format DSLR I'd have thought 24mm or 28mm would be about right for a "standard" lens. Incidentally 50mm came as "standard" with most film SLRs because it's long enough to be easy to get into the lens mount, not because it's "ideal" - the "ideal standard" focal length is the length of the diagonal i.e. 42mm for 36x24 format (which is actually about 35mm x 23mm in the film gate on most cameras) though I, and many others, prefer something just a little wider.

[stuart2588]

Thanks for all the kind advice guys.

I have been messing around with the camera all day lol. I think I am finally beginning to get somehwere after reading lots.

One question...

When I am taking a picture on the manual creative mode, by changing the shutter speed and f number this changes the exposure meter that I see on my viewfinder. Should I always aim to have the exposure set at 0? Or is it sometimes benificial to change the settings so that the exposure level will be at +1 or -1 etc? Will it all depend on the light and what type of picture I am wanting to create?

Thanks Paul for the heads up on the 7th jan. That sounds very interesting. Where in belfast is it hapenning?

Stu

[jgs001]

Stuart, the basics say got for 0 on the exposure meter, although you can use other settings for creative usage. For instance, Sometimes if I'm having to use a High ISO during the day, I'll go for a little overexposed and pull the exposure back down as, to me, this helps a little with controlling the noise. Although I'm sure there's all sorts of other reasons for over and under exposure (low key and high key I think).

[JohnC]

This is  relatively recent  deja vu for me and I am getting all these feelings back just reading your last  post, Stuart. What is important  is that when some advice is offered the why's and wherefore's are explained. If you read the manual from front to back it will do your head in so be selective otherwise you'll  be reading about complicated procedures that you just won't need. Time for the fancy stuff later.  Use the manual to familarise yourself with the  main features and those that will assist you in taking a good photo. It won't tell you beyond a couple of  lines the why's and wherefores.   I find that  just doing something   on instructions isn't good enough- you've got to know why.  The first person I went to for some help very quickly explained the depth of field..(you'll see that  written as dof)  and something else and then said not to worry about it anyway as I could shoot in automatic for most of the time - what tosh.   I see John is advocating using P   mode . You can shoot without the activation of the flash for one thing but to be able to change the speed and aperturer you need to half depress the shutter button and then change the values. What I suggest is that you try what John is recommending because one of the Guides on my US tour who sells his photos shoots in P mode but the other Guide uses mnaual. I use manual - it's quick and easy full control but see what suit you best.,you've now got another option.      

I know how you feel and it's important to take on board the basics and you can work from there. I can only assume  you are starting out with a DSLR so I have to take a chance and hope I'm not telling you something you already know. Also  someone else may step in and suggest something else or a better way,we'll see.

If you set the ISO to 200 or 400 that should be ok. Start going over that 400 and you will start to get noise in your photo unless the manual states that your camera will be ok up to whatever. The 40D is supposed to go to 800 without any noise .

1. When you are about to shoot a subject you have to decide what you want in focus. So we're talking aperture here.  f-numbers.  At a wedding if you have a group photo and you are on f4.0 5.6  the people at the front  centre will be in focus but not those  at the extremes and in the rows behind with those at the back looking not too good. atall. You need   around f11. So with a landscape you'd choose f11, 13, upwards. I've read that  anything beyoind f16 isn't going to make a lot of difference. If you want your pet's photo then get it sharp but the background out of focus so select a wide aperture. f5.6 f 4. say.

2. Half press the shutter. You need to establish the exposure.(speed) and you do that by seeing where that exposure needle is which you mentioned-you have it on 0.            
Where it sits will depend on what the speed is currently set at. Let's say it's a bright day like we have at the moment. You may well find that if it's down at 1/100 sec and less that pointer will be to the right of 0. It's telling you that too much light is being allowed onto the sensors and your photo will be over exposed- blown out in areas. So, increase the speed until that indicator comes back to 0. ie. centre.  +1 is one stop further  open for the aperture and that will allow double the light in that 0 would. and 2 ,double that.The opposite applies of course. Many photographers will  take 3 shots. One 'properly' exposed  ie. on 0. one under ie. -1 and one over...+1. I found that plus and minus 1 is too much difference and I go for two thirds. Can you do that ?  I just find that the photos I keep have been taken two thirds underexposed. Remember that you can increase exposure in your software but  you can't too easily  bring back an overexposed photo.        

3.  Take your photo. Look at the LCD screen and see what it looks like. All you'll get here is an idea. What looks ok here make be overexposed on the computer BUT you can help yourself a lot by doing what I do. Get the info. up on the LCD screen On mine I press the info button twice and the histogram shows. I have this on permanently so that when I look at the  image on the LCD it straightaway shows he histogram. . Bunched to the left end  ?  - it's too dark,underexposed so   decrease the speed. over to the right -too light- overexposed so  increase the speed ie. letting in less light. .Try to get a middling  undulation.  Try to avoid a high contrast spike too. Getting the histogram right can be tricky but there's a start.

Google Aperture- Speed and iSO but with ISO   just check out the basics. You can use the ISO to increase and decrease the amount of light too. Increase the ISO from 200 >400 and that's a stop . it's like opening up the aperture from f11 to f8 or the speed from 1/500 to 1/125.  So, as you see there are various ways of increasing and decreasing the amount of light .The difference is that the speed and the aperture   use a mechanical action  whereas the sensor becomes more or less sensitive.
I expect I'v forgotten something important,hopefully someone may spot it.  

Only a few guests,as they call us, on the US Storm chase tours take a tripod but they are the ones who will get the best photos.  Some, many infact,  people can't be faffed with a tripod (I also use a cable release too). There is no camera shake if you have it on a tripod and use a cable release. If you're going to have it on a tripod then you may as well use a cable release as well because you then don't touch the camera. It isn't always possible,I know, to be able to errect a tripod so take a beanbag with you and rest the camera o that. Here's   another reason. When the light gets poor and I know the lens you have will have a max. aperture of f3.5. and this is very good at 18mm but  at 55mm its f5.6 and this will cause you light problems. You may have to decrease the speed to below what many consider to be the average limit hand held ie. 1/60 sec. Some practised photographers can go down to 1/30 sec. without camera shake BUT if you have it on a tripod it maters not because you can decrease that speed to whatever you want . and thus let more light in to get a proper exposure and you don't need to be increasing the iSO to a level that causes noise. When I was shooting lightning in the US my ISO was 100 because I had the camera on a tripod. I've seen handheld photos of lightning but I think that's more luck than judgement. If you do decide to get a tripod don't' waste money  ( like I have Lol) getting a cheap end one at under £100, you need a reasonably heavy ,sturdy one or the more expensive light but sturdy carbon  fibre . You don't need the expensive  remote  shutter release cable,the manual one is fine.              

Here's a forum that deals with 3 Canon cameras and one is the 100D and users are posting questions. I see the first three answers to one question weren't very helpful  really but it's added to all the time.. I'm following the thread o the 5D mark 11 to see what's being said- if I want one I may have to go busking though.lol.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1031

Well, I'll post this as you do seem to be setting out rather than already  being on the road. I  really  hope it helps.  I have a great neighbour who does weddings and we discuss all sorts so if someone on here is not able to give you an answer but I doubt it, I can always have a chat to my neighbour- he doesn't know everything  of course but what he doesn't know he inevitably gets an answer to. Three years ago he was in your position a year ago I was in your position. Infact I'm in your position  but in relation to  astro-photography and also  where these stars , comets etc. are.  I've tried to look for Taurus re. that comet  but  it's too hard atm. Who ever thought that  ID system up ? Lol.






http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1031

[brianb]

What a wonderful, detailed reply. Not much to add except all digital cameras have noise at all ISO settings - it's an inevitable consequence of the quantum nature of light! - stick to ISO 100 or 200 unless you really have to increase the speed. The 40D is OKish at 400 but better at 100, noise is certainly an issue at 800 and above.

Personally when shooting "normal" subjects I use aperture priority mode with the aperture set to f/6.3 - this gets the lens stopped down a bit so it delivers sharp results but still has a shallow depth of field - if I need more DoF I'll stop down but modern lenses actually start to go soft below f/11 & a small aperture also emphasises any dust specks on the sensor. Part of my routine is to check the shutter speed in the viewfinder when the shutter release id half pressed - if the number is less than the focal length open the lens up or increase the ISO as camera shake is a risk. With an IS lens (which I think you have) you should be able to go to shutter number 1/4 the focal length reasonably safely e.g. down to 1/8 sec at 30mm focal length. It still pays to practice holding the camera firmly and squeezing the shutter release gently so as to minimise camera shake. The tips about using a tripod, or beanbag, are good - other improvised supports like walls may also be useful - without a remote release, use the self timer to fire the shutter so that you don't have to "jerk" the shutter release (this cuts out "mirror slap" too).

Don't know about accessories but the most useful are a spare memory card & battery pack! If you don't have them you will miss shots. Don't forget to keep the spare battery pack charged. "Third party" battery packs are much cheaper than genuine Canon ones, and (if bought from a reputable supplier) are likely to be just as good or even better than the "real thing".

[brianb]

I've tried to look for Taurus re. that comet  but  it's too hard atm. Who ever thought that  ID system up ? Lol.

It goes back at least to the ancient Babylonians .....

Taurus is actually quite easy, especially if you know the Pleiades, which is actually at the north west (top right) corner of the constellation. Otherwise, find Orion, follow the line of the "belt" upwards and to the right for about the same distance as the height of Orion and you will come to a bright star (Aldebaran) with a V shape of fainter stars pointing to the right - this is supposed to represent the bull's face (those ancient Babylonians certainly didn't lack imagination!) The Pleiades can now be found by extending the line from Orion's belt through Aldebaran for about two thirds the same distance, you come to a small misty spot which in good skies or with binoculars reveal themselves to be a bunch of 6 stars in a sort of very small saucepan with a short handle shape. (Lots more stars are visible in bins or with a small scope). In winter, look south in mid-evening to obtain the best views.

Directions apply to temperate Northern latitudes - reverse up/down, left/right for temperate Southern latitudes, in the tropics this stuff may be more or less overhead & things get complicated to describe!

[JohnC]

Phew, what a relief Lol. I've not been able to get back on since the above post but I thought afterwards that Stuart may know all that but he was just asking for advice on the camera but your first line, Brian, cheered me up. I knew I'd have missed some important advice so you did a great job . Stuart should be an accomplished photographer by next Monday Lol.  How's it going Stuart ?

 Also,thanks for the info. re, the constellations. Just earlier on this evening my wife called me to the computer and suggested I attend a week end course for beginners.                What do you think ? Would it help  or  just getting help here and doing some googling would be  just as good ?

http://www.farncombeestate.co.uk/coursedetail.asp?course=1512

[martinastro]

Great thread! I very much enjoyed reading all the above camera techno info, very educational. I fully agree with everything said. I use a tripod for almost all my photography, including day time shots. If you get one Stuart and use it on a regular basis you will notice a major improvement with your images. Get a good one though...the one I have is flimsy, it does the job but with a strong wind blowing there's problems. My dad used to tie a brick to the central pole of his tripod using a piece of string years ago when he wanted a steady wind-proof camera platform.

John, sorry about Taurus, I forgot to get back to you about that but Brian explained it very well indeed, I hope your not in the dark anymore.

When you said a course...do you mean a course to learn the stars?...if so I would say NO...it's best to learn them yourself. Learning the constellations is a special experience and should not be done through someone elses biased mind/eyes. Take your time and learn one at a time, it's extremely satisfying and rewarding, and once you have the pattern in your mind it will stay there forever. Enjoy it.  ...that's my opinion anyway.

[JohnC]

Yes Martin. It's about the identification.and equipment but you've given  me a lot of info. re. the equipment so that would be redundant. The link at the bottom of my post is about the course.

 My instinct is to do what you say, ie. get to grips with it myself  and shout for help on here but I have to say that the way I work I need anchors, points of reference if you like and for the life of me I cannot see the  anything constructive (meaningful really) in the,  what appears to me to be , arbitrary choice of stars connected by lines and then declared as a constellation.  I've been out every evening lately but along with this hoar frost comes wispy cloud and fog now so all I've seen is the moon, venus and a few stars. I've written down what Brian has told me and I'll take that with me when I get clear skies. Taurus, when isolated , looks  to me like a man lying down with his arms back alongside his head so I'll try and locate that first. I've looked at Pleiades through the 12 x 50's I've got so I can locate those straightaway and Ill take it from there. The other problem, starting out ,is that the  stars that go to make the constellations are amongst myriads  others and that makes it difficult to isolate them too. I must get a chart. Sagittarius has a rectangle and a triangle below it  I see   so those two should be good for starters. but I think summer is best for that.

 Well, I'll blame the Babylonians then Lol.